Choosing Glazes
Julie and I are going down to The Ceramics Shop to pick up raku glazes today.
We are having Megan mix up four glazes for us.
The first glaze is Seth's Luster. It is a matte raku glaze that contains bone ash, so that the surface is rough instead of smooth. The glaze goes copper under heavy reduction, but flames licking onto the piece give light and dark blue, yellows, pinks, and purples (almost the same color spectrum that anodized titanium provides, except that the high voltage 'bug green' and low voltage 'gold-brown' don't appear.)
The second glaze is a clear crackle glaze. In order to get it to be stark white, we will put a white underglaze under it. I was looking for an opaque white crackle, but couldn't track one down that wouldn't go transparent under heavy reduction (you can then see the color in the clay body, so the white crackle goes grey, or tan). I'll probably contact Vicki, my ceramics instructor down at Spruill House, to see if she has a glaze formula that she recommends.
The third glaze is a small batch of a beading glaze that contains a high percentage of magnesium carbonate. It is the one that I found on Dewitt Gimblet's list. Since I have seen this glaze recipe in several places on the net, but have never seen anyone discuss the glaze results, let alone post pictures, I will be interested to see what the results are.
The final glaze is Louden's Base, which will be colored using Mason Stains. Mason stains are colorants that can take the high temperature of ceramics. The linked picture uses 20% #6033, 'Sunset' added to the base. We are planning buying several stains, and adding them to the dry glaze mix as needed. I just want to make sure that we use enough colorant to really pop.
We are having Megan mix up four glazes for us.
The first glaze is Seth's Luster. It is a matte raku glaze that contains bone ash, so that the surface is rough instead of smooth. The glaze goes copper under heavy reduction, but flames licking onto the piece give light and dark blue, yellows, pinks, and purples (almost the same color spectrum that anodized titanium provides, except that the high voltage 'bug green' and low voltage 'gold-brown' don't appear.)
The second glaze is a clear crackle glaze. In order to get it to be stark white, we will put a white underglaze under it. I was looking for an opaque white crackle, but couldn't track one down that wouldn't go transparent under heavy reduction (you can then see the color in the clay body, so the white crackle goes grey, or tan). I'll probably contact Vicki, my ceramics instructor down at Spruill House, to see if she has a glaze formula that she recommends.
The third glaze is a small batch of a beading glaze that contains a high percentage of magnesium carbonate. It is the one that I found on Dewitt Gimblet's list. Since I have seen this glaze recipe in several places on the net, but have never seen anyone discuss the glaze results, let alone post pictures, I will be interested to see what the results are.
The final glaze is Louden's Base, which will be colored using Mason Stains. Mason stains are colorants that can take the high temperature of ceramics. The linked picture uses 20% #6033, 'Sunset' added to the base. We are planning buying several stains, and adding them to the dry glaze mix as needed. I just want to make sure that we use enough colorant to really pop.
posted by SquidgePa at 6:25 AM
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